Macon Magazine

56 maconmagazine.com | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2024 to represent luck for the new year. Visitors might be tempted to think a floor-to-ceiling wall covering of Japanese calligraphy near the host stand is merely decoration. It isn't. It's the handwriting of Hayakawa's own father, captured before he passed. "The road has no divots," it proclaims. Staff explained this proverb is meant to show optimism when undertaking an endeavor: "just imagine the road is smooth ahead." This tenacity represents Chef Hayakawa's journey from Hokkaido, his native island. He was classically trained in Japan before moving to the United States and opening up shop 16 years ago. His restaurant was originally on an unassuming stretch of Buford Highway, a suburban road dotted by immigrant- owned businesses in Gwinnett County, the most racially diverse municipality in Georgia. "I remember the fear and anxiety I had at that time, but looking back, I am so glad I was able to get the courage," Hayakawa said. The restaurant quickly took off, gaining a reputation for being the most authentic sushi in town. "We try to serve food and experiences as similar as possible as that in Japan." This includes intimate seating along the single sushi bar and policies like no strong fragrances and no cell phones during the meal. Hayakawa is known to his patrons with the honorific Haya-san (a way of showing respect, like saying Mister – or perhaps sir or ma'am to your average Georgian). He arranges plates in front of the guests, joking and educating along the way, so patrons remain fully present in their meal. Hayakawa only serves a 16-course omakase experience, a Japanese-style chef's tasting menu, "which means 'leave it up to me/up to you,' and as such, the menu and cuisine style is completely made and curated by the chef for you," said Hayakawa. The food, too, is distinctive. One won't find Americanized rolls with cream cheese – the focus is on the fish, which Hayakawa often sources all the way from Japan's famous Toyosu market. "The freshness is different, and there is a lot of care in getting the fish here," noted Hayakawa. "I believe that care and gratefulness is reflected in the flavor." Hayakawa's signature dishes reflect his heritage: "I incorporate some of Hokkaido's taste in every weekly menu," he explained. This includes his Hotate (scallops), an audience favorite, and the Ikura (salmon roe). One of his best-known "trademarks of Hokkaido," as he calls it, is a dish most Americans (even sushi lovers) won't have tried before – Uni, or sea urchin. Uni has a light, fluffy texture, foam-like appearance, and briny flavor. When COVID hit, Hayakawa, like many restaurants, was forced to adapt, serving bento boxes to-go and operating short-staffed. But more meaningfully, Hayakawa began bringing meals to Emory University Hospital – and didn't stop for over a year, including serving frontline healthcare workers on holidays. He eventually earned a medal from hospital workers in mutual solidarity. "We may serve food, but we cannot save people's lives. We wanted to support those who were working hard and struggling to help others," he said. With pandemic strictures lifted, in 2023 Hayakawa moved to Midtown's Star Metals building. The upscale location and sleek design were paired with even more intentional practices. Hayakawa now serves only two seatings of eight diners per night. Throughout each change, the accolades keep coming. "By winning the star, I feel like I've been able to give back to all who have supported us," noted Hayakawa. More than his awards and reviews, he says he's most proud of his team. His translator, Monet, who describes herself as "a third culture kid" due to her Japanese-American heritage growing up in East Africa, seems emphatic about her experience: "It is so easy to take pride in the work we do here," she said, describing how her work has made her feel at home in the United States. "It's so fulfilling to not only share amazing food, but a core part of my heritage and the beauty of Japanese cuisine." Speaking lovingly of his adoptive home, Hayakawa believes, "The taste of Atlanta is soul food! I'm always inspired by Atlanta to put my soul into my food." ABOVE Hayakawa is the only Georgia chef nominated for the Outstanding Chef award by the James Beard Foundation.

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