Macon Magazine

IN 19TH CENTURY MACON, an invitation to dinner at the Johnston- Felton Hay House was akin to walking a red carpet. Brilliantly orchestrated, these gatherings were attended by prominent socialites and publicized in print. Behind the scenes, however, a staff of servants ran the show. Never meant to be seen or heard, many of their histories were unrecorded. Evidence suggests that the Johnston-Felton family and their staff possessed a level of household management that rivaled similar estates in New York and Chicago. William and Anne Johnston's parties were used to express their high social status. A Macon Telegraph article dated December 1926 said, "There are twenty-four rooms in the residence, many of them large enough for the holding of any social function, and it is in this home that many of the famous social functions of years gone by have been held." One festive occasion was described in a Johnston family letter dated Dec. 3, 1877: "A great many people were present. ... They danced until half past eleven, and then went into a very handsome supper, composed of oysters, chicken salad, salmon salad, grated ham tongue, turkey, and so many other nice things. Don't it make your mouth water to think about it?" While grated ham tongue does not make my mouth water, it draws into question, who prepared it? What role did servants play in these extravagant affairs? Consider Dolly Blunt Lamar's account of a Johnston family party: "The Johnstons always entertained lavishly and impeccably and HAY LORE Service on a grand scale An ongoing series about Hay House lore, traditions and history above all systematically – the music, the dances, the refreshments at the close of the party were so scheduled that each item rolled off like clockwork. Everything was just so: if one dropped a crumb, a butler would appear at one's elbow to sweep it up immediately." A party hosted in such a systematic manner suggests that Mr. and Mrs. Johnston employed a well- trained staff of butlers. The task of the cook, however, was the most labor- intensive. In 19th century kitchens, cooks never prepared food for dinner until the hour it was needed. This was no easy accomplishment, as formal dinners began after 9 p.m., consisted of up to 20 different courses of food for nearly 100 guests and ended in the early morning hours. Imagine preparing a different course of food every hour for six hours for a group that size. In addition, the food had to be perfect. A minor faux-pas in cooking could alter perceptions of the host and future job prospects for their servants. Those working for the Johnston- Felton family were likely descended from former house servants. An 1870 Bibb County census reported Lizzie Cook as a 17-year-old black female, employed as a cook in the house of banker William Harlehurst. An 1880 census record indicates Mr. Johnston employed a 26-year-old cook named Lizzie Cook. It is easy to deliberate that Lizzie was hired for her training with the Harlehurst family. Eventually, Lizzie left the employment of the Johnston- Felton family. A 1906 city directory documents Lizzie Cook living at 306 Flanders St. and records her occupation as a candy maker. Little more is known about Lizzie Cook, but her legacy survives through letters that describe the parties she nourished. Hay House will continue to research the lives of these figures and their contributions to its history. – WILLIAM AULTMAN, HAY HOUSE DIRECTOR OF COLLECTIONS AND PROGRAMS PHOTO: MACON CITY DIRECTORY, 1906 3 4 M ACO N M AG A Z I N E.CO M | F E B R U A R Y / M A R C H 2 0 2 0

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